How Our Archival Art Prints Are Made
Not all prints are created equal.
Making a museum quality, collectible art print takes more care than simply putting paper in a printer. I'll take you through the choices I make to ensure my prints are gorgeous and long lasting.
|The quality of a print starts with the paper. Archival, museum grade paper is acid free and often made from 100% cotton. But my favorite part about nice paper is how it feels. I like to use thick, heavy paper for my prints. In my product listings, I include what kind of paper is used in detail, since I use many kinds depending on the art's needs.|
|A good printer with quality paper will yield finely detailed prints, like this, without the ink spreading. This is a tiny corner of my "Curse of Neptune" print.|
|Each print is signed by the artist in pencil. You might think something more permanent, like a marker, might be the obvious choice, but pencil is actually better. This is because it prevents counterfeiting. A genuine pencil signature is easier to distinguish as real for collectors. To prevent it smudging, a sealant is sprayed over the art.|
|The sun gives us life, but to an unprotected art print, it can mean... DEATH! UV rays are harmful to ink and cause fading. Just like your skin, an art print can benefit from a protective coating. I give each print a hit of UV resistant spray to ensure its longevity.|
|The final touch to a good art print is a protective plastic sleeve. This helps prevent finger prints, scratches, and can also deter UV rays.|
|This one might seem obvious, but not everyone does it. Shipping a print flat, as opposed to rolled in a tube, prevents curling. From my studio to your home, it keeps the print protected and in its best condition.|